Nili Lotan
Our Creative Director, Christiaan Klein Pauw, meets Nili Lotan in her studio in Tribeca for a dive into her iconic world.
When we were in New York, we visited the Tribeca studio of iconic New York–based designer Nili Lotan. We spoke about the roots of her brand, how it all began, her sources of inspiration, and the importance of consistency in her designs.
How did you know you wanted to start your own brand?
When I was thinking about starting my label, I attended a talk where someone asked what advice they would give to a young photographer. The answer was: photograph your inner circle—your father, your mother, your room—because that’s where you begin, and from there you build.
I translated that idea to fashion. I took my husband’s flight jumpsuit and started creating from there — focusing on the details and the essence. I also bought a few vintage camouflage cargo pants. Those became the foundation for my first pieces—the Shon pants and the Jenna pants.
For 20 years, I’ve been making those same pieces, and they still sell. From the beginning, I wanted to have my own atelier, which was unusual at the time, as most production was done overseas.
"I don't really look outside—I rely on my own archive."
Where does your inspiration come from?
What I learned from working with Ralph Lauren is the importance of consistency — he’s been refining the same vision for decades. I approach inspiration in a similar way. I draw from four distinct worlds that are deeply rooted in my life: music, film, books, and clothing I’ve encountered over time. I capture these influences and build from there. I don’t really look outward—I trust my own archive.
Much of that archive consists of vintage pieces, mainly from the 1970s. Each season, my team revisits it, curating elements that help shape a new collection. I work with five core boards.
One is inspired by Yves Saint Laurent in the 1970s. To me, that era represents an effortless, masculine elegance—chic but easy, with a quiet sensuality. There’s always a trace of that in my collections.
Another is The Rolling Stones—not so much their music, but their spirit. That sense of freedom, of dressing instinctively. It may look uncoordinated, but there’s a consistency in the pieces they wear. I’m drawn to velvet jackets, tuxedo shirts—worn casually with denim, never too formal.
Uniforms are another key influence. I’m fascinated by utilitarian design—everything has a purpose. Pockets, buttons, boots—nothing is decorative without reason. That functionality continues to inspire me, especially now that I’ve started designing shoes.
The military is a world of its own. My first husband’s flight suit was the starting point of my brand. From that piece, I developed my earliest designs, including the Shon and Jenna pants. I’ve been making them for over 20 years, and they still resonate. From the beginning, I wanted my own atelier—something rare at the time, as most production was done overseas. Even today, many of my cotton fabrics come from Italy, developed from raw white cloth.
“My first husband’s flight suit was the starting point of my brand. I developed my first designs from that piece. They remain relevant to this day.”
Lastly, there’s Americana—denim, western influences, suede, boots, bandanas. It’s a world people are endlessly drawn to. I didn’t grow up with it, but over time I came to appreciate its uniqueness. It feels distinctly American, especially from a European perspective.
All these elements come together in a focused way. My collections are always consistent—just a subtle balance of each world.
At Pauw, we present a versatile selection from the Nili Lotan collections. Iconic pieces like the Shon pants, denim, and shirts form the foundation, complemented by uniform-inspired, chic jackets with gold buttons. Accessories in croc-embossed leather and suede, such as belts and bags, complete the looks.